The Pond Report
offers more than pond information. We not only help backyard pond owners and water-garden
enthusiasts but also design and plan for municipalities, wastewater plants and
home-owner associations. If you are in charge of your own small pond or are the
manager of a large lake we can help solve the typical pond problems like poor
water quality and algae growth as well as provide free consultations to size the
correct aeration system or fountain installation. Our consultants work with the
top manufacturers to provide the right solution. Send
your Questions or Design Needs to The Pond Report: We always respond within 48
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Recent
Client Questions & Answers:
We hope this information helps you. We can go further than our free email consultations.
Question: Deicer
or Bubbler for Sailboats Hello,
I live on Lake Superior and have two sailboats. Hauling is getting too expensive
as there are no hoists here only special order cranes. I'd like to try a deicer
and leave the boats in the water. The dock is a very sturdy structure and we are
at the end of the protected area of the harbour were little. Id like to put the
two boats as the diagram show below: Please quote me on a system that will work
for the harsh winter we sometimes get here. These photos are of the dock area
the one I will be working on is the one on the left which is 90 feet long by about
30 long on the inside. Thanks, Greg
Answer:
Deicer or Bubbler
for Sailboats deicers
& bubblers | dock
bubbler packages Hello
Greg, Thank-you for writing. Please find your enclosed quote for the bubbler system.
Let me know if you have any questions. Regards, ThePondReport.com
You will
need, and everything is included in your quote::
1 - 1/3 HP Rocking Piston
Compressor $488.00 4 CFM @ 10 PSI, 4.4 AMPS at 115V , 6' power cord, thermal overload
protection, intake air filter, pressure relief valve Includes outlet for connection
to connect to airline. Compressor must be placed in a cabinet or shed which is
not included.
1- Weighted ½" De-icer Bubbler Tubing 50 Feet $275.00 Self-weighted
de-icer tubing with lead keel requires no weights. Die cut slits every 24" for
maximum de-icing. Requires min 0.01 CFM per foot and 2- 5 PSI. Set de-icer tubing
on outside edge of structures. Bend, place & attach tubing carefully to prevent
kinking. Bubble tubing to be placed on pond/lake bottom. Attach to blocks for
assured stability.
1 - Weighted 1/2" AirlineTubing 50 Feet $137.50 Weighted
airline. 1/2" I.D. Flexible and puncture resistant. Runs from compressor outlets
to the bubbler diffuser de-icing tubing around boats.
1 - Clamps, Plugs
& Connector Pack $20.00 Stainless Steel Airline Clamps, Diffuser Tubing Fittings
and PVC inserts connections. All required clamps and inserts included.
Question
Follow-up: Deicer or Bubbler For Sailboats Thank
you for the quote. This compressor at 550 watts can you give me an idea of the
duration it will run each day/ or does it run continuously for the entire sub
zero season ( December through March) 'Trying to determine some of the power costs
for budgeting.
Answer
Follow-up: Deicer or Bubbler For Sailboats Hello
Greg, The system is designed for continuous usage but my clients often plug the
compressor in to a thermostat controller or a thermo-cube system. These range
in price from $100 to $150 but can save a ton of money when used because the compressor
will only turn on when the air temperature is at freezing. Beyond the energy saving
they can prolong the life of the compressor and internal vanes. The 1/4 HP compressor
in your quote will cost $1.10 (Ontario approx) per day (24 hours continuous).
A typical 3/4 HP Kasco de-icer will cost $2.00 per similar usage. The thermostat
is the way to go to assure the system only operates when it is required. Our thermostat
controller is $143 CAD extra. I have also included a picture of the steel cabinet
and a look inside (the picture shows a larger cabinet with 2 compressors inside)
yours would be the smallest cabinet. The information on the vane compressor is
also included. Hope this helps! Again delivery is about 10-12 days and the products
come from the USA so there would be some additional charges levied upon delivery
(Canadian duty and border taxes...around 10 to 15% I believe). Payment is by Visa
or Mastercard (using PayPal). Thanks again for contacting us and please let me
know if there is a further way we can be of assistance! deicers
& bubblers | dock
bubbler packages
Question:
Using Solar Power To Aerate a Pond solar
aeration systems | battery operated
solar air pumps Hello,
I am interested in using solar power to aerate my pond I am currently digging.
It will be rectangular, approximately 1/4 acre, with a wedge shaped cross-section
rising from 10' depth to ground level. This should be in the neighborhood of 38,000
gallons. What kind of system, and how many cfm of air diffusion should I use?
Jeremy
Answer:
Using
Solar Power To Aerate a Pond Hi Jeremy, You could get
by with a single diffuser in the central deeper area. Using the DC air compressor
would be fine. The compressor can run for 6 hours off a car battery but it can
also be used solar direct (without batteries) if you use a linear current booster.
I'm not an expert on setting up a solar system though, we provide the DC compressors
mainly as a service who those who know the technical side of working with DC.
But if you could get a diffuser (or a couple) and two or three CFM into the pond
it would be perfect! Regards, Jay
solar
aeration systems | battery operated
solar air pumps
Question:
Installing a Solar Fountain We just put in a fire pond,
approx 100' x 75' x 9' and are planning to add fish in the Spring. I'm interested
in the Deluxe Solar Fountain; are there any photos available? This would seem
to be perfect for our application; we want to aerate only the top couple feet
- the pond is spring fed and should remain cold enough for fish in Summer. Any
photos or advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Dan
Answer:
Installing a Solar Fountain
Hi Dan, Not sure if this solar fountain will do the job for your pond but I am
enclosing a quote for an inexpensive and solid fountain; if you want a good fountain
that runs without electricity then this is the unit. We also have a battery pack
if you want to keep it running at night which is helpful if you have fish. Do
you not have any power located nearby that could run a proper electric aerator?
I have nothing against solar fountains but in a pond your size, if it were mine,
I'd want to have a more substantial mixing system. Most solar powered pond fountains
are too small to be usefull in anything but the smaller sized ponds, yours being
close to half an acre would not be helped extensively by this fountain beyond
perhaps providing a decorative spray and perhaps powering a small waterfall. That
being said, the multiple heads of the fountain are lovely and if you put it near
a nearby vantage point it will provide a nice splashing sound and look quite nice
during the day...but you may have to squint your eyes a bit! Just kidding...the
thing is, it is a rather small spray. You should really consider a floating fountain
to provide a decent sized spray and a minimum of gallons per minute of movement.
Let me know if you want to explore other options! Regards, Jay Miranda at ThePondReport.com
Question:
Wastewater Aeration Design
I request some general assistance in sizing and then obtaining an actual price
quote for a solar powered bubbler aeration system. Our agency has a stagnant 2.5
acre pond, 10 feet deep, (6.8 million gallons capacity) located behind a wastewater
plant. Wastewater discharged from the plant is impounded, for a farmer to pump
out of, to irrigate a cotton crop, when needed. The plant needs to maintain a
1.0 mg/l Dissolved Oxygen (D.O.) level in the pond (The D.O. readings are checked
at 8 am every morning) . What equipment is needed to maintain a 1.0 mg/l dissolved
oxygen level? What would be the equipment detail and price of equipment? Regards,
Mr.S
Answer:
Wastewater Aeration Design Hello Mr. S, Is
the need to use a solar powered system critical in this project? I am only asking
because such systems can have a considerable initial cost; a high-efficiency electrical
system could ensure the 1.0mg/L level for substantially less capital, likely 20%
the overall expenditure. An electric system, quiet and low AMP draw, would cost
in the area of $5000 complete with diffusers, tubing, lockable ventilated cabinet,
etc. A comparable solar powered system would cost in the neighbourhood of $20,000
and this sort of system requires batteries and a more rigorous maintenance schedule.
In the end, with today's efficient air compressors and pumps and with modern diffusers
an electric system is often a more cost-effective option and one that I would
be more comfortable quoting on. Let me know how you would like me to futher help
with this project. Regards, The Pond Report .
Question
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design A
solar powered aeration system is not critical. An electric system can be used.
Jay, thank-you for your fast reply. You are providing the best service I have
seen. I definitely need your help with this project because my required task is
to cost out all of the required electrical equipment and obtain literature on
the components. I prepare the budget, so written cost detail is paramount at this
time. Please advise of what information is needed from me.
Answer
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design Hello,
Glad to know that using electricity is a option as it will be MUCH simpler for
everyone involved from you to the actual installation and maintenance crew. If
you could fax (514-313-5658) or email me a site plan showing the basin with depth
markings preferably and the location of the power source. Also do you have 3 phase
power available or singe phase 220? If you can send me these details of the basin,
as in a plan or drawing, it would help immensely with my providing a full technical
quote and literature. Regards, Jay Miranda.
Question
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design Hello
Jay, Yesterday I sent a drawing of the pond via fax and via email. Please confirm
receipt of the fax and the email message. Please note that the key design stipulation
is to ensure a GREATER than 1 mg/l, Dissolved Oxygen level in the pond. I am interested
in how the design is performed........ Do you use a formula or a spreadsheet calculator
to size the equipment? The basis and how the determination is made for the equipment,
is very important for satisfactory support documentation for the proposal. Please
do not hesitate to telephone me, if you need anything. Thank you kindly. Your
time and splendid efforts are highly appreciated. Best, Mr.S
Answer
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design The
documents we're recieved and I will have time later today and tomorrow to look
at them and get back to you. I am finishing up a project for a tailings pond deicer
system so am just trying to finsh that so I can devote 100% to your project. I'll
let you know if I have any questions and will get back to you later today or tomorrow.Do
you have the current parameters of the basin? Raising the level to 1.0 mg/l Dissolved
Oxygen is not an obstacle but if you require the calculations involved I will
need to know a bit more about the current levels in the basin as well as any historical
data you had on levels of Oxygen, Ammonia etc. etc. to establish a baseline as
well as to provide you with an insight into the system we will recommend. Please
email any data pertaining to this system. Thank-you in advance! Jay Miranda ThePondReport.com
Question
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design Hello Jay, The basin is used
to hold water for a farmer to use for irrigating cotton. The pond is NOT a part
of the wastewater treatment process. Therefore, there is no wastewater treatment
process occurring to reduce the BOD levels, etc. The sole design task is to aerate
the pond to maintain a 2 mg/l dissolved oxygen level at all times. Assume the
impounded water has the following characteristics: BOD = 50 mg/l Total Suspended
Solids = 40 mg/l Settleable Solids = .5 ml/l pH = 6.5 Thank you kindly for your
outstanding customer service.
Answer
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design Hello Mr. S, We have determined
that this basin requires a minimum of 8 fine-bubble bottom-mounted diffusers.
Our recommended system would include a single steel lockable, fan-ventilated cabinet
equipped with 2 (two) 1 HP rotary vane compressors each with 4 (four) adjustable
valves feeding bottom mounted diffusers via weighted tubing suitable for burial
and puncture-resistant. Based on the size of the basin: Compressor system (dual
compressors with filters, cords etc) = 1 total package Weighted diffusers for
mico-bubble aeration delivery = 8 diffusers Weighted airline, suitable for burial,
kink resistant = 1500 feet Clamps connectors and connector set = 1 Total cost
of system = $10,300 Not sure if this is in the budget of of your client but this
is what we would install if it were our project. Let me know if you have any questions.
Regards, Jay Miranda ThePondReport.com
Question
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design Thank you kindly. Yes, the
dollar amount quoted is within our budget. Could you provide me with a vendor
price quotation? Or, refer me to a vendor, so I can obtain an actual written price
quotation from the equipment vendor on letterhead paper. Our agency's purchasing
agent needs a source to contact for their followup equipment procurement process.
Please continue the wonderful work. Your time and splendid efforts are highly
appreciated. Have a remarkable day. Mr.S
Answer
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design Here is your formal quote
for the complete reservoir aeration system:
Custom Compressor System Two
(2) 5 HP motor-mounted, oilless vane compressors. Each produce 45 CFM @ 10PSI
12 running amps, 1 phase, 220V. (one year warranty) Each equipped with an inlet
muffler and 1" NPT ports. 5 HP motors listed are standard 1,725 rpm ODP. Power
cords are not included. Motor and rotary-vane compressor bolted to steel base
suitable for floor mounting. Two (2) six-way brass/steel manifold outlet control
valves for regulation of airflow each with pressure relief valve. 12 outlets total
(6 per compressor). All compressor outlets equipped with heater hose and barbed
hose adapters to be connected to weighted tubing runs to ponds and diffusers.
Glass enclosed noise/air muffler, replaceable air filters, pressure relief valves
and liquid filled pressure gauges all included and installed.
NOTE: Ventilated
cabinet is not provided for compressors but is available as an option. Use forced
air ventilation in an enclosure with minimum dimensions of 72" x 72" x 36".
2000
Feet of 5/8" Weighted I.D Airline Tubing (Self-sinking air hose sold by the foot
in rolls of 100 ft) Insulated/weighted air hose (no metals) to run from compressor
outlets to diffusers in basin. 5/8" I.D. Designed for waste water application.
Puncture and corrosion resistant. Uses standard 1/2" barbed connectors (included).
UV resistant, Kink-free, remains supple in cold temperatures, suitable for burial.
Twelve Synergistic™ Airlift Diffusion/Mixing Assemblies Six 9" ceramic-type
diffusers mounted on a self-sinking underlay. (Five year warranty) Each diffuser
circulates 6000 gallons per minute at 10 foot depth. Inlcuded diffuser underlay
prevents sediment erosion. Diffusers resist clogging, require little maintenance
and are suitable for basins with high organic levels and/or salinity.
All
Required clamps, connectors, and hardware is included.
Shipping & Handling ** All charges, taxes, fees and duty included ** $17,445.00
Total In US Dollars
Let me know precisely what else would be needed to
assist you with this project. I can provide the technical details of the compressors
and if the installation crew requires instructions with the connection of the
componants I can also provide that. The system I have quoted is plug-and-play
and would require a basic 30 AMP power supply. I have included the instruction
manual for a similar turn-key aerator for a less complicated aeration system.
This is the manner of literature that would be included so let me know if it is
adequate? As your system is a custom design we would likely have only generic
documents and then could assist by phone any installation questions you may have.
As you have seen, our strength is our willingness to participate and we can do
so very well with email, fax and telephone! Regards, Jay Miranda ThePondReport.com
Question
Follow-up: Wastewater Aeration Design Hello Jay, Thank you kindly
for the calculations. As I noted at the beginning of our numerous email messages
my task is to obtain budget costs for miscellaneous equipment needed by our small
municipal wastewater treatment plant. I prepare budget sheets with costs that
are submitted to our agency's management for review and they in turn, approve,
delay, or defer the work.
Our Board Of Directors meet once a year to adopt
the budget for all of the projects approved by management. The process is long
and arduous, since this is a municipal government bureaucracy. I have no idea
how this project will fare compared to the myriad of other projects from the Roads
Department, Health Department, etc., that require action and may require immediate
attention. However, my humble task is completely finished, and now this project's
thoroughly documented package has been forwarded up the chain of command to others.
This will probably end my correspondence with you. Please know that I plan to
pass your contact information on with high recommendations to my co-workers in
wastewater.
Thank you kindly for the remarkable customer assistance. Please
continue the phenomenal work. Your time and outstanding efforts are priceless.
Have a splendid day. Yours truly, Mr.S
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Question:
Lake Freezing Issues with Boat Lifts Hi,
My husband and I live on a lake, we purchased an awesome dock bubbler from dockbubbler.com
last year and it worked perfect, however our association without allowing us to
represent our case made a rule that they would not allow dock bubblers, however
we have no access to get our very large and heavy boat lift out without a crane
or a lot of manpower. What other mechanisms can you recommend that would prevent
ice from forming around our lift, we are trying to follow the rules but do not
want our $4,500.00 investment to be destroyed not to mention what we paid for
the bubbler. Any help you could provide and literature to support would be great.
Some of our neighbors went and complained stating that we thawed the entire 62
acre lake last year which is not true we had a freeze with a lot of wind causing
the ice to crack and break. They have liability issues, we live on a private lake
everything you do is at your own risk, we had signs up about thin ice etc.
Answer:
Lake
Freezing Issues with Boat Lifts
Hi Kim, Since you were using a dockbubbler.com system which is a standard bubbler
tubing deicer you had one of the standard dock deicer systems. The only option
to reduce the size of the open water would be to have small diffusers placed on
the pilings only. This would release a small column of bubbles around the footings
only instead of the entire boat lift. You could use the same small compressor
and send airlines to small diffusers attached to each of your dock pilings. However,
if the association has declared any sort of bubbler illegal you might have to
use a totally different system like a heater for the pilings. This would be like
using a legal loophole! Add a small heater to each of your pilings to keep the
zone ice free...of course you may have to rig up some protective PVC pipes around
the heaters and the cost of a 3000 WATT submersible heater may become substantial.
When laws restrict the use of bubblers or deicers you don't really have a choice
but to remove the dock. Of course, this also may present an interesting business
opportunity!! Regards, ThePondReport.com. Question:
Aeration system for 90,000 gallon tank I
much enjoyed your website! We’re looking for an aerator to maintain water quality
in a 90,000 gallon tank of water. The water will be used for animal feed water.
We plan to use solar power and want DC current. Do you have an aerator that you
can recommend for this size tank? Thank you so much for the quick response and
help. Yes, I would need tubing and diffusers as well – say 50 feet of tubing and
two diffusers. The tank will be about 11 feet deep. I am also interested in algae
information. Robin Thank you, Robin
Dear Jay, Thanks so much for all this
great information. This equipment is for an Engineers without Borders project
that we are doing in Mexico. There are still some more i's that have to be dotted
and t's that have to be crossed before we purchase. I really appreciate your help.
Robin
Answer:
Aeration system for 90,000 gallon tank Hello
Robin, The DC-201 direct current compressor would probably be best. This DC oilless
air-compressor will give you around 1.3 CFM of airflow which is more than enough
for two diffusers in the tank although one would likely suffice. The DC-201 can
be run solar direct by using a linear current booster and a few panels or if you
know anyone who can help set-up a battery powered system that would be a good
option. I wouldn't be able to help with the solar requirements as far as panels
go as that's not my field but the AMP requirements are all listed on the webpage
http://www.thepondreport.com/solar-battery-pond-air-pumps.shtml so whoever was
setting up the DC system could use those numbers to get you up and running.
Regarding
the algae information. We use a few natural products that are safe for animals
and people so they could probably be helpful. Do you have algae growing in the
tank already? We use the algaecides and natural bacteria listed here: http://www.thepondreport.com/pond-algaecide-natural-bacteria.shtml
There are different formats to suit your tank size.
Aeration is key to
assisting to keeping the algae down and will enhance the results of the bacteria.
Regarding the aeration: The PR-DC201 DC compressor is supplied with a 3/8” hose
outlet so I will include 50’ of 3/8’ weighted airline. Because you are using the
DC compressor in 11 feet of depth you need to use 9” ceramic-type air diffusers.
They're machined from a solid block of glass-bonded silica. They produce a uniform
medium/fine bubble and are very resistant to clogging. And when cleaning does
become necessary because of a buildup of calcium precipitate or bacteria, an light
acid bath restores them to like-new performance. Two-year guarantee. Made in USA.
The diffusers are 9" L x 1.5" W, 3/8" OD barb.
I will also include a pack
of 10 diffuser bumpers to keep them from banging the tank. I’ll send some stainless
steel clamps for the hoses and diffusers. I will also include the two way adaptor
control valve; this manifold will connect to your compressor outlet hose and will
allow you to split the line in to two lines and control the airflow in to each
of your diffusers. The connection of the DC compressor (pigtail wiring included)
to your panels, controllers, regulators and boosters and solar panels is something
I can't help with and would be best to have done by someone knowledgeable to ensure
the compressor isn't over/under worked.
Your order would be:
1
– DC Air Compressor (PR-DC201) – 12V 6 to 8 AMPS 1.3 CFM at 6 PSI (6 month warranty)
1 – Roll of 50’ weighted airline 3/8” ID 2 – Ceramic Diffusers 9" L x 1.5"
W, 3/8" OD barb 1 Pack – Diffuser Bumpers (rubber) use 3 per diffuser 1
– Two –way valve control manifold with 3/8” ID fittings. Uses fine adjustable
globe valves. PVC construction. 1 Pack – Stainless steel clamps and required
connectors
The total cost would come to $690. This includes shipping.
If you wanted to proceed let me know and I can send you the payment information.
Best regards, ThePondReport.com
Question:
Report on Blue-Green Algae
Dear Editors,I would like to read a real technical Report for successfully
cleaning of blue-green algae from polluted on phosphate and nitrates lakes treated
with microbial , not chemical products. I would be involved, if so far the discussion
is, to deal with a project in China. The lake is huge, heavy polluted with chemicals.
The water suppose to be of drinking quality after algae removal. The condition
is not to use chemicals, only biological treatment. There are so many bacterial
based products on the market. I would like to know when I use some of them how
many lakes are successful treated and the results. If you can help me, I would
be very pleased and thankful to you in advance. Thanks in advices Sincerely yours,
GS
Answer:
Report
on Blue-Green Algae
Thank-you for writing. We have heard of a some pilot projects that have been accepted
this year by the the Canadian Government to study bio-augmentation and the ability
of natural cultures to repair and restore waters. I'm not sure if these studies
are specifiacally focusing on blue-green / cyanobacteria but we're looking forward
to see results. Most of what we read on successfully stopping blue-green algae
is based on long term watershed management and not bacteria or chemical additives;
expect in smaller closed ponds and systems. Are you involved in treating a lake
or pond experiencing blue green blooms occasionaly?
We have dealt with
several clients assisting with the growing problems of water quality in China.
As mentioned, we are working with several firms along the Pacific Rim who are
assiting firms in China to deal with bluegreen algae, cyanobacteria and other
diseases of the eco-system. I hope you have found the enclosed information useful
and we appreciate the gift of $500 for our services of providing information and
contacts to help your firm with developing the market in China. Regards, The Pond
Report.
Question:
Winter Algae Problem
It is winter and my pond is full of algae on the rock and everywhere.
I have a ultra violet light but in the winter it is off. The water is clear but
the algae seems to grow and I cannot see the rock anymore. Do I wait until spring
or even if spring arrives how do I get rid of this stuff. I don’t use chemicals
just the regular “microbe-lift, activated carbon, Pond zyme barley, Amo-rock.
And I use well water to fill the pond and water changes. The pond is 1100 gallon
and has two waterfalls. I seem not to be able to get rid of the algae, probably
string algae or it si puffy green on the rock..etc I want to use something that
gets rid of the algae even o the rocks not just make the water clear. Is there
something like that? HELP I am being overrun by algae !! Markus
Answer:
Winter
Algae Problem
Hi Markus, You probably need to treat with a safe algaecide for the stuff growing
on the rocks. The non-copper algaecide we have that is great for stuff clinging
to ricks, cement, waterfalls and other surfaces. It isn't a chemical and won't
hurt fish or pets. Since you have a severe problem you might need to use larger
doses. You mention microbe-lift and pond zyme barley and amo-rocks. These products
may not be the right combination if you have continuing problems. We have had
a very sucessfull with our Pro Rated 7 Natural Dry Bacteria which contains barley
straw as well as natural cultures to reduce ammonia and help prevent algae and
muck; it may be worth replacing the products you use with a single all purpose
one. The Algaecide and Natural Bacteria can be ordered online here: http://www.thepondreport.com/pond-algaecide-natural-bacteria.shtml
Do you have a bottom mounted aeration system or just the two waterfalls? If you
had a picture of the pond I could perhaps spot something in the design that is
causing porblems. I look forward to helping you! Best Regards,ThePondReport.com
Question
Follow-up: Winter Algae Problem Thank you for answering so quickly! Here
is a picture of my pond. I purchased what you recommended and thank-you so much
for helping me so quickly during the holiday season! Am I to put it in the pond
even in the winter when the water is not circulated? I am so happy with the results!!
Thank you, Markus Question:
Pond Treatment and Aeration
We are looking for help/advice for our pond. Attached is a picture
of the pond to help you understand my description. First this is a newly dug pond
and we have been filling it from our well for about a month now. We are located
in South Carolina so we don’t have a problem with icing. Here is some info about
the pond. Total pond area is 200 feet long and 140 feet wide. Island is round
and approximately 50 feet in diameter. At it deepest point (around the island)
it will be 8-9 feet deep. Deep section around the island base is about 30 feet
wide. After the 30 feet, there is about a 3.5 foot shelf. From the shelf edge,
the pond slopes (30 -38 degree slope) up to the pond edge. The area you see through
the bridge and to the right of the bridge is the largest open area (140’ wide
by 100” long). It is a gradual slope (maybe 18 degrees) from the base of the island
to the edge of the pond. If you look at the left side of the pond about a 4th
of the way in you can see the arc of the water feed line on the outside edge of
the pond. It hits on a graveled area to prevent erosion. I would welcome your
advice on sizing the aerator and what treatments we should be looking at now.
Thank you, Gayla
Answer:
Pond
Treatment and Aeration
Hello Gayla, Thank-you for writing and sending the picture of your pond, it
helps make recommendations when we can see the pond in question.
Firstly,
because it is a new pond there are a few phases that you will likely go through
in the first two years that are fairly normal and can include, cloudy water, algae
blooms, odors and other issues (not to mention issues with fish if you are planning
on stocking the pond). A new pond can take a while to stabilize but once it has
achieved a healthy balance it will require only minimal maintenance. Once the
banks have become properly vegetated to prevent erosion it can make a huge difference
in water quality. There are also some positive steps you can take throughout the
year to ensure a healthy water chemistry.
Typically when we are treating
a pond we add natural bacteria to assist and augment the existing healthy bacteria
that live in aquatic-systems. These are not chemicals but are concentrated mixtures
of existing bacterial colonies that already exist in ponds and in the earth. Adding
bacteria regularly can greatly reduce the build-up of sediments which can cause
algae blooms and odor causing nutrients.
Adding bacteria isn't always
required but in new ponds it can be helpful and in all ponds adding some will
help and once we have achieved a balanced pond we typically only need to add small
maintenance doses. The recommended bacteria treatment for a pond your size is
usually: A spring shock treatment of liquid bacteria (3 gallons) usually in February.
Once the water temperature is above 43 degrees F a dry bacteria mixture with a
barley straw additive (a natural algaecide) is added to eliminate ammonia, nitrates
and muck. This helps keep waters clear and reduces nutrients. At the end of the
season, usually in November or December an end of season over-winter treatment
of liquid bacteria (again 3 gallons) is added.
The addition of an aeration
system can greatly increase the efficiency of the bacteria cultures as the oxygen
keeps the bacteria living longer. Again, the bacteria is safe for people, pets,
animals and fish and plants. Since your pond is relatively shallow I would place
a small aeration system to the right of the bridge in the larger area of the pond.
A two diffuser system would be adequate. Place the diffuser assemblies equally
from each other and from the banks of the pond. Since your pond is only 9 feet
deep maximum you can use some quiet air compressor to operate your aeration system.
I don't see any power source in the photo you sent but I imagine you have some
power nearby.
Being a new pond, I would place the most importance on bacteria
seeding of the pond, followed by the installation of an aeration system; then
you would need to allow some time to pass so the natural growth and settling of
the pond environment can occur. If you would like a quote for the recommended
bacterial treatment and the aeration system I would just need to know where approximately
the power source is located in relation to the pond and if you will have a structure
or shed of some sort to house the air-pump or if you would prefer a system with
a lockable outdoor cabinet. Also, having your zip code for delivery would allow
me to provide an all inclusive quote with delivery included.
Oh, and are
you planning to stock with fish? I look forward to helping with your pond project!
Regards, Pond Report
Question
Follow-up: Pond treatment and Aeration Jay, Thank you for your prompt
reply. We are debating on the power source for the aerator. We are considering
everything from burying an electric line out to the pond, or solar panels, or
even a wind mill for power. It all depends on the quotes and how much power is
required. We are looking at stocking the pond and would again welcome advice as
to how to discern if the pond is ready and what to stock to create a balanced
ecosystem. I would welcome your quote for bacteria, aerator (with an explanation
of the power requirement). Also, we would prefer a lockable outdoor cabinet. I
“think” I answered all your questions. Again thank for the quick turn around!
Answer Follow-up:
Pond treatment and Aeration Hello Gayla, I often answer questions
regarding the cost of installing an aerator and what is the most cost effective
way to do it.
I would say that if you have power within 500 feet of the
pond it is more cost effective to install an electric aeration system at the power
source and run an airline down to the pond. Running electrical wiring is always
an option but it can cost from $3 - $6 per foot to run an electrical wire a substantial
distance. You can run an airline the same distance for under 75 cents per foot
per foot so your budget should be evaluated before choosing a system.
An
electrical system is the most efficient and effective aeration system which offers
the most control over start and stop times. As far as costing an electric system:
if we assume you have power right at the edge of the pond and you could place
the system within 50 feet of the pond your complete system In my experience the
electrical system is the most effective and the cheapest compared to a windmill
or a solar system. If your electrical connection was 500 feet away, you could
still use the same electrical aeration system and then run airline to the pond
to the two diffusers. This may add, with connectors and hardware, an additional
$300 and may require some labor to bury the airline but I've found that it can
be less expensive than running electric cable the same distance. Plugging the
system in to a timer to operate 8 to 12 hours per day can save electric costs.
The aeration system I would use in your pond, including the rotary vane
compressor and the ventilation fan in the lockable steel cabinet, requires only
6.0 AMPS. A standard 15 AMP fuse at your control panel will be more than enough
if your electrician asks.
The complete turn-key aeration system (1/3 HP
rocking piston dual outlet compressor, lockable ventilated cab with post mounting
hardware, 200' weighted tubing, 100' regular tubing, 2 diffuser assemblies, hardware,
including delivery) would cost $2185. An equivalent windmill system (all inclusive
= 23' windmill, two diffusers, 200 feet weighted airline, 100 feet of airline
suitable for burial & valves) would cost : $2025.
What I like about windmills
is that they are quiet and require no electrical power. What I don't like about
the windmill is that it requires a major installation; I used to work with a company
that did windmill installations and we would charge around $1500 plus materials,
the windmill requires cement footings and the construction and erection of the
windmill can take over 32 man hours which can be costly in the end. If you have
people who are on-site who can do the work it may be an option but with 90% of
my clients the idea of a windmill is not a viable option.
If you wanted
to use solar power you could expect an expenditure of at most: $2500 - $6000 depending
on if you ran it with a battery system or simple solar-direct (no batteries but
it only operastes when sunlight hits the solar panels). Solar aeration is not
really our specialty so if you wanted to go this route you whould have a local
contractor to provide the information on how to set-up a solar power system based
on the specs of our DC compressors which I could provide if you were determined
to go that route.
In my experience the electrical system is the most effective
and the cheapest compared to a windmill or a solar system.
For the bacteria
treatment I recommend this treatment and application rate: Winter Application
(apply just before expected freeze-up or in January if you are a no-freeze-zone):
2 gallons liquid "BactaPUR XLG-A" Spring Application (apply as soon as ice is
gone or in March): 2 gallons liquid "BactaPUR XLG-A" + 2 Gallons of "BactaPUR
Pond" (One gallon 2 weeks after XLG treatment and the 2nd gallon 2 weeks later)
Summer Application (when water is above 42 degrees F): 2 lbs of dry natural pond
bacteria with barley straw per week. Comes in 1/2 pound soluble pouches. Toss
4 pouches per week near aeration diffusers. Cost per season: The cost of the 6
gallons of the liquid natural bacteria for the winter and spring shock treatment,
plus a 25 pound supply of dry bacteria with barley straw for warm waters to reduce
ammonia, nitrates, muck and algae would cost, including delivery is $825.
When
adding bacteria, you can expect to reduce your applications every year. This recommended
start-up dosing is for a newer pond, you will likely see reductions in yearly
applications as the pond attains a natural health. During the summer, when applying
dry bacteria, you may be able to reduce the applications based on observed results.
We are here to help so as the seasons progress we can help, by looking at photos
and through emails, determine if we can reduce bacteria treatments.
All
natural cultures have a 3 year shelf-life so any stock purchased this year can
be used in subsequant years if it is not required this year. As for stocking the
pond, it should be ready for a hardy species that is available locally at any
time once an aeration system is installed. You should stock your pond with a species
that handles warm waters well (trout is not an option) and the best source for
fish would be a local fish farm or fish supplier. Like plants, it is best to use
native species if possible so they are acclimatized to your weather patterns,
if you know people with ponds who can provide references that is probably the
best way to find a reliable fish source.
One thing I have found is that
it is best to know how many fish your pond can support which is based on the species
you want to introduce. In the area I work in where many pond owners add large-mouth
bass to their ponds and according to bass experts it is recommended to add only
2 large fish for every 15 linear feet of shoreline, so in your pond, which may
have a circumferance of around 650 feet, you would only be able to support around
90 full-grown bass. So be cautious if a fish farm wants to sell you 3000 fingerlings
unless they are small enough that only a minimum percentage is likely to survive.
Due diligence! If you have any questions please let me know! I look forward to
helping with your pond! Best regards, Jay Miranda for ThePondReport.com
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