The Pond Report offers pond information on a variety of subjects and we recieve many questions from people who need more information or who need expert advice. Please use our website to find the answers to your questions about pond and pond tips for keeping a healthy pond. Please understand that due to volume of requests for help we may be forced to charge a fee for our services in the case of large projects or in-depth proposals.
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Pond Report Frequently Asked Questions:
I hope this information helps you. We can go further if you would like a full consultation. For the $100 consultaion we will look at diagrams and photos of the pond and help create the best plan for a long term sustainable plan for your pond. If this information has been enough you can also show your appreciation by offering a small payment based on what you feel my help has been worth.
For the options please visit: http://thepondreport.com/consult.html

Recent Questions:

Hi ThePondReport.com , thank you very much for your words. If the bacteria works also in a septic, is there a difference between the bacteria used in septics and the bacteria used in ponds? Also, I see on your site that you offer a pond consultation for $100. I'm desparately trying to find a long term care program that provides a solution to majority of algae and so on. I'm feeling that the combination of bacteria, aerator, dye and possibly tripoid grass carp could be a solution. Would you recommend the consultation? Best, Jason


Hello i Jason,
There is a difference in the blends of bacteria that are used in septics and in ponds. There are specific blends that work on various problems; some bacteria works on grease, some on organic waste and some on hydro-carbons and compost leachates. It is best to use a bacteria designed for a specific situation. Some bacteria that is used for septic fields and septic tanks may provide benefits to a pond but it is a bit like taking a headache medication when you have a sore back...there might be some benefits but it is best to use the right analgesic for the job!

If you are looking for a long term strategy I can probably help, and while I do feel that our consultation services can be beneficial we are moving towards offering our advice for free and then recommending products that we feel will help. We do make a small profit on the products we sell thanks to help from manufacturers and in this way we can offer help to pond owners like yourself and if you appreciate the knowledge and help we give you can purchase the recommended products from us to show your appreciation. We find this works well with our goal of helping people as we would often do a $100 consultation and people would not be satisfied...so we needed to find a better way to help without asking for a consultation fee.

We now do our consultations on a "pay what you want" system. We provide as much information to a pond owner as we can and if they want to show their gratitude they can send a payment to us from a secure Paypal/Credit Card payment link we send. I will briefly give you a summary of what you should do for a long term pond care program.

1. If you have a natural Earth Pond, that is a pond with no liner, ensure your pond has proper growth around the edges and shoreline. You need to keep a buffer zone of vegetation growth of at least 3 feet to resist erosion and prevent runoff from entering the pond. This helps reduce the nutrients that cause algae from entering the pond.

2. Circulation/aeration. You must have water movement and aeration to support fish and keep the waters clean. Oxygen is one of the basic principal ingredients of a healthy pond. Bottom mounted, often called "lake bed aeration" is very efficient. Fountains and surface aerators can also help circulate and add vital oxygen to the pond. Waterfalls can help but they provide mostly circulation benefits and while they do offer some aeration it is not as efficient as other methods.

3. Aquatic vegetation. Adding aquatic plants and shallow shoreline dwelling species will add oxygen naturally to the pond and will help filter out nitrates and nitrites while providing beauty and shade to the pond. In ponds that are exposed to open sunlight the warmth of the sun can lead to algae blooms and steps should be taken, if no natural springs are feeding the pond, to reduce the sun's effects on the pond.

4. Beneficial bacteria. Organic material will accumulate on the bottom of the pond and this build-up will create conditions ideal for algae growth. Using a natural bacteria will help reduce this tendancy. Many bacterial mixtures, including the one we recommend and sell, contains barley straw which is a natural algaecide. This algaecide, combined with the bacteria that consumes muck and nutrients will help keep the pond water clear and reduce the growth of algae.

5. Algaecides. Any algaecide like Polydex, Copper-Sulphate, or other such products should be used with care as they can be harmful to certain organisms and have certain restrictions for usage. On our algaecide and bacteria page we have listed a good algaecide but even that should be used only in extreme cases. It is better to use natural plants, aeration and harmless bacteria to maintain a youthful pond but in certain cases where there is no choice but to rapidly eliminate algae we do recommend and sell certain safe algaecides.

6. Dyes and Floating Islands. Aquatic dyes and liquid shade can be helpful to slow or stop weed growth and algae proliferation. They work by blocking sunlight from reaching the depths of the pond where the rays would normally heat the pond bottom and release phosphorous and other elements like ammonia and nitrates which cause water problems. Floating islands can also be used to provide shade but these natural water filters can be expensive and while they do provide benefits such as filtration via plant roots to a pond the aquatic dyes are something more affordable that can be added every month to a pond to reduce the sunlight that hits the pond floor.

7. Triploid grass carp. Grass carp have proven to be effective in controlling a large number of different aquatic weeds, including Chara (stonewort), water plantain, sago pondweed, Canada waterweed, and filamentous algae. The young growth of pond cattails, sedges and rushes may be eaten and ultimately controlled, over time, as older plants die back. Adding the triploid grass carp into ponds and waterways is not legal in all districts and municipalities so it is best to verify with your local Environmental Agency if adding the triploid grass carp is allowed or rewquires permits. Certain algaecides, like Polydex, can cause the toxic accumulation of toxic copper in the organs of these fish which is why we only use non-copper based algaecides in our projects. These are fundamental issues we look at in any pond especially when it is plagued with algae.

Don't forget, Jason, that what gets washed into your pond can also have a major impact on how the water reacts and how much algae you have. I have seen people living 3 miles from a ranch and they were constantly having huge thick matts of algae growing every time it rained. It was from the rich nutrients in the horse manure being washed into the pond that caused the problem...cows, goats and duck manure can cause the same reaction. I think that the combination of bacteria, aerator, dye and possibly triploid grass carp could be a very good solution.

I hope this information helps you. I can go further if you would like a full consultation. For the $100 consultaion we will look at diagrams and photos of the pond and help create the best plan for a longterm sustainable plan for your pond. If this information has been enough you can also show your appreciation by offering a small payment based on what you feel my help has been worth.

For the options please visit: http://thepondreport.com/consult.html Thank-you again for taking the time to write and I hope I have been able to help! Regards, Jay Miranda www.thepondreport.com

Other Questions
Hello! I am digging a 1/2 acre pond and wondering about the placement. What is a good distance from home? What is a good depth for the pond and how much can I plan on spending for chemicals, an aerator and the excavation?

J. From The Pond Report Replies;
Hi! When I was working for a pond supply and construction firm we did it all; from planning to construction and then supplying aeration etc. First of all, from what I've seen over the last 12 years, you should expect to follow a few steps: Contact a few local pond builders and ask for some pricing. We always told our clients that a finished pond would cost in the area of $1 per square foot...since a 1/2 acre pond is about 22,000 square feet we would often ballpary $22,000. Of course this depends on terrain and a good contractor will do a soil sample.

The depth you want to dig depends on if you are having fish, if you have natural springs feeding the pond, and if you are in good clay or soft sand and need a liner. As I've said before a pond that is natural will want to maintain a 2 to 1 slope so no matter if your contractor says he can dig a 30 foot pond that is 50 feet in diameter it will soon be only 15 feet deep based on the natural laws of physics.

Of course we did incredible landscaping and made the pond look like a totally natural pond with rock features, lovely embellished banks and natiral plants along the shoreline. Many contractors will quote low and dig you a hole that will turn into a muddy mess. Be careful and ask for references! Your pond, once built, might look rather poor for a couple of years until the vegetaion takes hold and depending on many conditions that we often consulted on. Aeration in a 1/2 acre pond should cost no more than $2000 and is usually not less than $800. Again...it depends on who you ask. It is best to ask an established firm as we've seen the internet clouded with many so-called experts! For chemicals...if you build the right pond you won't need any! Perhaps a natural bacteria would help but chemicals can lead to a dependance and even more problems. A pond is a living eco-system and should be treated differently than a swimming pool! I've worked on many ponds and suggest you do your homework and ask an expert before giving anyone the mandate to "Dig In!" Have fun!


Horrible Algae in Small Pond
HEAVY TYPE ON TOP OF POND . THE FEW GRASS CARP DO NOT SEEM TO EAT IT . HOPE YOU HAVE ALGAE KILLER WHICH WILL NOT KILL THE FISH . MATTHEWS , NC 28105 Do you have what I need by order or access in or near Matthews , Monroe or Charlotte , NC ? Respectfully ,

Hello and Thanks for writing! Getting rid of the algae isn't too difficult. We don't use chemicals like copper products as this can create a cycle where the algae dies and then sinks and then decomposes and this causes more algae to grow and then you have to add more chemicals! This is a waste of money and can also damage your fish. We like to use natural bacteria products that are not chemicals but concentrated natural bacteria that consume organic materials in the water...this reduces algae and over time your pond won't be affected with algae. Always make sure you have good circulation or aeration as this helps too. I would recommend two products for your pond, you can buy them on our secure online store, and we can ship them directly to you in North Carolina.

Buy our top-rated algaecides and totally natural pond bacteria

To remove horrible thick algae on a small pond over 1/2 an acre to 2 acres use:
EPA Registered - CleanGreen Pro7 Rating (Our Highest) (50 lb bag)
CG Pro7 is an alternative to algaecides that utilize either copper or synthetic chemicals as their active ingredients.
CG Pro7 is a gra nular product that attacks planktonic and filamentous algae on contact. Through the power of oxidation, the treated algae die within hours of being treated. For spot treatments apply at a rate of 20-50 lbs/acre-foot. For algae blooms apply at a rate of 9-30 lbs/acre-foot.
Natural ENV - Ponds Keeper Bacteria7 (25 lb pail)
Each pail contains 50 soluble pouches of 1/2 pound each of high potency natural, safe, bacteria for ponds. Breaks down organic sludge like leaves, dead plants, fish droppings, fish food, fertilizer and dead algae. Reduces odors. Harm less t o fish, animals and turf plants. Apply 6-8 packets (3 to 4 pounds) every 2-4 weeks. **IMPORTANT : Do Not Begin Treatment with Ponds Keeper Bacteria7 within 72 hours of treatment with CleanGreen Pro7


Contact us for special Pond Report bricing to buy natural algaecides and beneficial bacteria for your large pond. | algaecides and pond bacteria |



For Ponds smaller than 1/4 with Horrible Algae Use - UltraClear SST:
Dosage Instructions: The dosage of UltraClear SST is based on the volume of water in pond. Generally, use 1 ounce for every 150 gallons of pond water. The required frequency of product dosing will vary between once per week to once per month in most cases. If you are simply trying to prevent a problem that seems to occur each year, start dosing UltraClear SST before you have a problem, and repeat once a month during those months when you have normally experienced blooms.or growth in your pond. If you are treating an existing problem, dose once a week until the problem is solved, then revert to dosing monthly or as needed.

This should be combined with an activated barley straw mixture to balance the ph and create conditions that inhibit algae growth. With the UltraClear SST you will add the following :

2 - Barley Straw and Peat Extract Liquid
Microbe-lift Barley Straw and Peat extract will give you all the benefits of concentrated barley extract plus the added benefit of liquid peat to help maintain an ideal pH in Alkaline ponds. Rich in organic peat which softens pond water reducing nitrate and phosphate concentrations in the water column and provides a natural buffering agent and ion attenuation in lined ponds that additionally gives them some beneficial properties of earthen ponds.
The combination of these two products, combined with proper circulation or aeration through a fountain will get rid of that pesy algae. The dosage information can be adjusted as you achieve the desired results. Most clients prefer to buy a few of each product as they have a long shelf life. Best Regards, The Pond Report

Question 1
I was wondering how i could get power to my bubbler or pump that i want to get if i can get power to it, it is a lake that i use for duck hunthing in the middle of a field with no power anywhere i was wondering if their was anyway of getting power to it without spending lots of money.

The easiest way would be to operate your bubbler using an electric generator. We've helped design many bubblers for hunters who want to keep ice off of ponds and lakes for duck hunting. A bubbler, using some sort of diffuser tubing or PVC pipe with holes in it can be placed in the pond and a rotary vane compressor or a regenerative blower can be kept in the hunt shack and be fired up by using a portable generator to generate electricity. It will take a few hours to melt through the ice if it is very cold but soon the open waters will form over the diffuser tubing and the ducks will have open water to land. We work with many duck hunters who need to keep ice off the pond and the portable genrator is the best option. We sell an exclusive gasoline generators that feature smooth, easy starting, fuel-efficient. four-stroke, overhead valve engines. They are, we consider, to be equal to the Honda OHV line of generators at much less of a cost. These electic generators have a 10 hour run time per tank which is suitable for duck hunting bubbler applications. Our smallest unit is a 2,300 Watts generator with 2 outlets (110/120 Volts) that only weighs 100 pounds and has a 67 decibel noise level at 25 feet. These electric generators, perfect for duck hunters and duck lake deicers, ranges from $480-$925 depending on the generator required, we carry generators for up to 6,000 watts. These are also great for emergency power supply in disasters.